“The 10% Rule: How Much Should You Really Spend on a Watch Strap?”

• 3 min read

Rediscovering the Art of the Bespoke Watch Strap

Step back to a world where automobile manufacturers made the car and coachbuilders crafted the body; where watchmakers supplied the movement and casemakers built the case. In the 1950s, bracelet makers such as Gay Frères were called upon to supply the bracelet—sometimes costing more than the watch itself.

Perhaps, over time, we’ve lost the love and true appreciation for bespoke craftsmanship—especially when it comes to the luxury watch strap.

Why the Watch Strap Deserves Equal Love

In this faceless, mass-produced world, we have all but surrendered our expectations. We love our watches—why not reserve the same emotion for our straps?

Quite simply, a watch strap should be equal to the watch itself. It’s a marriage, and a good marriage is both complementary and harmonious.

Introducing the 10% Rule

Hence, I propose the 10% Rule: the budget for a strap should be around 10% of the watch’s value. Not an afterthought, but a conscious decision to elevate the strap to its rightful place—as the perfect complement, or should I say, showcase, for the watch.

If we are prepared to spend £500 on a £5,000 watch, we have the budget to commission a bespoke, handmade watch strapfrom one of the finest makers in London.

A Family Tradition of Leather Craftsmanship

I grew up in a leather-oriented family. My father owned a shoe factory, and we all shared a deep appreciation for quality leather goods—whether clothing, luggage, furniture, car trim or shoes.

Whether fashioned by Italian craftsmen, earthy Spaniards, high-quality Americans or home-grown British artisans, the passion for leather runs deep.

Inro London – The Best Bespoke Watch Strap Maker in the UK

In the UK, quite possibly the finest bespoke and handmade watch strap maker is INRO London, located a stone’s throw from Marylebone. Here you’ll find the complete retail watch strap experience—a place where traditional craftsmanship meets modern refinement.

When I first met Nawaz of INRO, I immediately recognised a kindred spirit—a man truly in love with his craft, and Inro’s guiding light. You need such a guide to navigate your journey: to arrive at your destination avoiding the pitfalls and wrong turns.

Choosing the Right Watch Strap

Selecting a bespoke watch strap can feel daunting because there’s simply too much choice. A watch strap is small, but technically difficult to make—it must withstand scrutiny and yet act as the bridge between client and watch.

The genius of INRO lies with its proprietor. What price can you put on experience coupled with a sixth sense? And yet, Nawaz doesn’t even own a watch. Perhaps that’s the secret—his impartiality, a quiet mastery above brand loyalties.

I met Nawaz over coffee and presented my Rolex for his careful appraisal. Within ten minutes, we had chosen the perfect strap—proof of his intuitive understanding of watch strap craftsmanship.

Craftsmanship Remembered Long After the Price Is Forgotten

As with everything bespoke, the handmade watch strap will be remembered long after the price has been forgotten. What price can you put on lasting quality?

INRO straps come with a two-year guarantee—a rarity in the world of watch accessories. Each strap takes 4–8 hours to complete, with every process carried out by hand. Inro is most familiar with brands such as Patek Philippe, F.P. Journe, Panerai and Cartier—but their craftsmanship extends to any watch.

The Rolex Question

What of Rolex—the most recognised name in luxury watches? Apart from the Cellini and Everflex models, Rolex are essentially sports watches fitted with bracelets.

There’s a certain stigma to replacing the bracelet with a strap, but your bespoke Inro strap can achieve the same quality, fit, and feel as the original. The synergy should not only be persuasive—it should be compelling.

Rolex doesn’t make straps, but if they did, they’d look and feel like an INRO strap.

A New Dimension of Enjoyment

I don’t plan on ditching my bracelet anytime soon—it will alternate with the seasons—but the strap adds another dimension to the enjoyment of ownership.

Perhaps it’s the individuality: the blending of a textured dial with a natural suede strap on a Datejust makes for another expression of timeless elegance.

Why Quality Watch Straps Are Worth It

Too often, a fine watch is let down by a poor strap. You wouldn’t put remoulds on a Ferrari. Similarly, it’s false economy to fit a lesser strap to your beloved timepiece.

A hand-crafted strap is an investment—just like a pair of handmade shoes—and one that pays back over years of wear. While a £120 strap may last a few months, it’s not uncommon for an INRO London strap to last five years or more.

So, How Does the 10% Rule Stack Up?

The 10% Rule is not a hard rule—it’s a guide, a reference point to start your journey toward better watch strap choices.

Does a £500 Apple Watch deserve the INRO treatment? Absolutely. Does a £100,000 Patek require a £10,000 strap? Not necessarily.

The way we view hand-crafted watch straps needs re-education—and that education could well begin at the doors of INRO London.